Full City Coffee House in Palermo Soho – rustic, industrial aesthetic inside. delicious cold brew as the spring weather is slowly, painstakingly slowly, becoming summer. I have not tried the food but worth it for the coffee alone.
Café Birkin in Palermo Botanico – offers lots of delicious things for breakfast or lunch: huge salads, omelettes, sandwiches, along with their delicious cappuccinos and extensive tea menu.
Malvon – also in Palermo Botanico, where I live and thus spend the most time. Lots of food for the brunch deal on Saturdays and Sundays – it comes with coffee/tea, a corn muffin, fruit and corn-flake granola crunchies, and your entrée.
Cafe Negro – Located in Centro, a few blocks away from my classes, they excel in being friendly to everyone and playing the best music. Their playlists on Spotify cover every nuisanced mood and situation: rainy days, jazz, upbeat pop, or argentine rock but all of them perfect for studying/working while drinking coffee, a dulce de leche latte, or a mango smoothie.
Hierbabuena in San Telmo – I can’t say enough good things about this place. Consistent, delicious, creative foods and most of them are vegetarian ( even vegan). It is a great place for lunch, or brunch on the weekends, after exploring the antique stores in the neighborhood.
Creperie – in Centro – the complete: ham, cheese and a fried egg on top is yummy and filling.
Ninina Bakery – Palermo Soho. For lunch, lots of sandwiches along with a vegan and veggie burger and lots of topping options: caramelized onions, avocado, goat cheese, pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, etc. Their breakfast menu seemed pretty average: omelettes and pastries + coffee and juices. fresh ingredients. beautiful open bright space.
La Carniceria and La Cabrera – I’d recommend both for some Argentine steak. I’ve had solid meals there with lots of chimichurri sauce on top of the lomo and bife de chorizo. We tried a few sides that were all solid as well – puree de papas, apple sauce, pickled veggies, cabbage, arugula salads. I’m still recovering from vegetarian preferences and don’t love any steak. But it was pretty good, which is saying a lot for me!
Fabrica Del Taco – decent mexican food, great for a margarita and a quick taco late night in Palermo Soho. While hot sauces are lacking in Argentina, here they have a few different kinds! – but sadly no Sriracha. I definitely get a sugar high from the sugar-coated rim on top of the already sugary margarita.
Sarki’s the Armenian restaurant in Palermo has a line outside the door waiting every night by the time they open for dinner at 8pm. I haven’t figured out what distinguishes Armenian food from Mediterranean/ Israeli food – it seems the same? I loved the falafel and the moussaka, along with the hummus, babaganoush and tabouleh. Each entreé is only about $8/9 USD – very affordable place and feels very comfortable, family-oriented, lots of regulars.
Teatriz – classic, elegant, dimly-lit restaurant in Recoleta, simple and delicious food but expensive.
Cafe Jacoba – “Jewish Food” in Palermo Soho, gefilte-fish and smoked salmon and a bagel on the menu but I prefer the mediterranean food yumminess. Different from the empanadas and asados.
Grand Bar Dazon This place is hidden in Recoleta on the 2nd floor of a nondescript building. The entrance, a dark staircase with not a lot of signage, is easy to miss. Metal candelabras light the stairwell and the bar itself has little LEDS imbedded in it – like christmas lights everywhere, giving off a shimmery, sparkle environment in the dark space. Very extensive cocktail list and very delicious.
Esquina Libertad – My favorite drink here is a Cynar Julep: cynar, an Italian liquer, grapefruit juice, raw sugar, and some mint, pretty scrumptiously sour and sweet and herbal-y. The best part about it, besides the grapefruit and mint combination, is that it only costs $3 USD/45 pesos. Their rooftop deck is a great place to sit on a warm night and away from the crowded indoor room.
Florería Atlantico – much has been written about this place, fantastic speak-easy in Centro/Retiro/Recoleta – the borders between barrios are very unclear- that looks like a flower shop until you walk downstairs. They make their own gin and the cocktails are good and original.
Shows/Things to Do
San Telmo Fair – every Sunday. super touristy. knick-knacks. crafts. meh – it’s fun the first time then it’s overwhelming, crowded, and all the products look the same.
Fuerza Bruta – apparently Fuerza Bruta is in NY too and I just had never been to it. It’s an experimental experience of a show that is somewhat hard to describe: part-concert, part-aerobics, part-Cirque De Soleil-esque. The crowd standing in a seemingly vacant hall, gets instructed to move to certain sides of the room as the space transforms, people swing from the ceiling and dance on the walls. The show culminates in a dance party with a water cannon showering the crowd and confetti.
La Bomba del Tiempo – There is a show every Monday night. crazy, wild, energy as a percussion group performs. The drum circle built up and swelled to have the whole room moving and jumping along.